This is an elegant, underwired bra pattern in small-medium (UK): 34AA, 32A, 30B, 36AA, 34A, 32B, 30C, 38AA, 36A, 34B, 32C, 30D, 38A, 36B, 34C, 32D, 30DD, 40A, 38B, 36C, 34D, 32DD, 42A, 40B, 38C, 36D, 34DD, 44A, 42B, 40C, 38D, 36DD, 44B, 42C, 40D, 38DD, 36E, 34E, 32E, 30E, 32F, 34F, 32G, 30G and large sizes (UK): 46B, 44C, 42D, 40DD, 38E, 36F, 48B, 46C, 44D, 42DD, 40E, 38F, 36H, 50B, 48C, 46D, 44DD, 42E, 40F, 30F, 32F, 34F, 32G, 34H, 34G, 36G, 32H, 50C, 48D, 46DD,44E, 42F, 40G, 38H, 36HH . No seam allowances are included - the pattern should be traced on to paper and seam allowances added. This gives you the flexibility to add your preferred seam allowance - I recommend 8mm however some makers use 6mm or 10mm. A short tutorial showing how to add seam allowances can be found here; https://youtu.be/BYzz99UW938
The liner for this is a simpler 3-panelled design that can be used in its right - so this is effectively two designs in one! Cups to be cut in bra foam are attached as a separate file (NEW!)
For those experienced in bra making and knowledgeable about grading I have made use of the uneven grade charts to offer a finer level of sizing. In a nutshell this means there are a larger number of size variables to this pattern. Above a cup size D most commercial bras will increase by too high a step and sister sizing doesn't quite work for everybody. If you still do not fit the size chart (frame/band/cup variables) given with this pattern, information is given as to how a particular frame/band can be altered to be paired with differing size cups. The cups are sized using the bottom cup measurements. I really want makers who use my pattern to think about the size and shape of the breast and use the direct measurements of the cup (bottom cup depth and cross cup depth) against the band to result in a perfect fitting bra, rather than picking their usual bra size. You can read in my blog here how I went about making myself a perfect fitting bra; https://www.corsetsbycaroline.co.uk/blog/
Skill level - intermediate to advanced; there are step by step instructions but some knowledge of bra making would definitely be useful! The crescent shapes are a little tricky (opposing curved seams) but nothing that some tight basting won't overcome.
Note - the band was drafted with a 10% reduction for stretch - this is assuming a strong elastic will be used so if your elastic is not particularly strong, or you are in-between sizes, go down a size rather than up.
This pattern is available as an instant download - you will need to print out on size letter (A) or A4 paper making sure actual size and centre the print is ticked in your print dialogue box.
It is recommended that you make a toile to check the fit of the pattern. Full instructions are given.
There are no restrictions on the use of this pattern - use to your heart's content. I simply ask that you don't pass on the file or use it to, say, profit from a line of ready-to-wear bras.