Techniques and Patterning in CAD

This is a 71 page e-book of CAD patterning instructions (for use with downloadable software called Draftsight (note - there is now a fee of $99 for this software but you can take a 30 day free trial), including an overview of corsetry construction techniques plus three corset patterns for the discerning corset maker. The descriptions are based on the Windows version of the software (Macs are not supported by yhe new paid version of Draftsight). Please download the software from Solid Solutions and take up the 30 day free trial before buying this manual or making a decision to buy the Draftsight software so you know your PC or Mac is compatible and you enjoy drafting in this way). The digital drafting techniques described can be used with alternative free software however please note that the interface and commands will look different than described in this particular manual.

This book has been written for the corset maker who has mastered the basic techniques required to create a corset. They will understand the different construction methods and the importance of strong seams and quality components. Accuracy and attention to detail are imperative qualities if a quality garment is the aim. Once all of this is understood and mastered the next level is to design a bespoke made-to-measure pattern. This book is a step by step users’ guide to using a CAD software package with this aim in mind. Once you have mastered digital drafting creating patterns is so much quicker and straightforward - it will save you time in the long run!

Using a step by step approach, two methodologies will be explained – digitising an existing pattern that can be amended, graded, or simply filed for future reference, and attempting a design from scratch. Also included are three beautiful patterns as inspiration for your designs – take a look at these to see how the sizes are nested, at the possibilities of top and bottom line shapes, and how lines and curves can be used to manipulate the shape of the corset silhouette.

I have described corsetry techniques however this book does not focus on construction. If you are a paper pattern cutter and would like to move into the digital age, this book is for you. The corset drafting principles described could be used with other CAD or graphic platforms and indeed for patterning any type of garment – the screen is simply your dressmakers’ paper and the commands are your pencil and rulers. Beware however that the basics cannot be learned over a weekend – you will need to dedicate some time to mastering it. Once learned you will be adept and quick and wonder why you didn’t teach yourself sooner.

Front cover - Liv Free (photography and modelling).

Comment from Lucy Corsetti from Lucy's Corsetry:
''I've gobbled up your book, plus some advanced tutorials my partner sent me! So far I've made 3 patterns, and grading sizes is a breeze (one of my favorite parts now!). I think back to a few years ago, and how Sarah and I spent 12 hours a day for two weeks straight, grading each individual pattern by hand. Each size could have been completed (more accurately) and printed out in just minutes if I knew then what I know now. Developing my collection is going to be so much faster now. Thank you thank you!!''