Caroline's corset blog

Musings and progress from Caroline - projects she's working on, tips and tricks, and thoughts on corsetry

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  1. It's summer here in the northern hemisphere so what better design to work on than a 'ventilated', or cage, corset. I love anything with a peep hole in fashion - a sensual and interesting addition to any garment - and in this lattice design there are many!

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    One thing that became apparent whilst pattern cutting and grading this one is that the lengths and angles of the horizontal and vertical strips (panels) are incredibly subtle to the wearer. The way a horizontal strip will hug the curves of the body greatly affects how it butts against the centre front (CF) and centre back (CB), and how it aligns neatly against the vertical strips. It is for this reason that I realised I couldn't be too prescriptive and needed to create more of a template that makers can use to get started, rather than a more exacting pattern that I am used to making. It is therefore more of a tutorial this month.

    I have detailed two variations - fabric strips (see photo below) and Petersham tape (see photo above). There are no curves to the strips (the only curve in the template is the one seam on the CB panel that interfaces with the horizontals) - they are all straight. To achieve a flatness to the fabric/tape in the hip area, a bend is introduced in the fabric, and darts are shown in the tape. To create the same flatness in the rib area, the horizontals are angled. I have done a lot of horizontal and ribbon type designs and getting non-curved strips of fabric on to a curved body with a perfect flatness is the challenge.

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    This template and tutorial will be published for $5 patrons on the 31st July and remain live until the end of August.

  2. I like to create non-corset patterns on occasion - they never sell in my Etsy shop (millions of patterns out there!) but there are a few 'fallow' months per year in my Patreon offer as I publish a pattern every 6 weeks  - I don't like the idea of patrons not receiving anything so like to issue some different things; articles, hints and tips, and patterns like this tunic top. It is based on the Worth bodice method whereby the bust dart is drafted wide to force the front side panel on the bias - it allows the fabric to skim the hips utilising the slight bias stretch for added flow.

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    As usual I thought it might be a quick design/grading exercise, but it never is!! The listing can be found here; https://www.etsy.com/uk/CorsetsbyCaroline/listing/1029816386/tunic-top-minidress-pattern-this-is-a-35?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1625121707849

     

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  3. I am blown away by the perfection of fit and comfort I have achieved with this one;

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    After years of experimenting I am able to pattern cut and sew to achieve the smoothest of garments - it gives me such a pleasure. 

    I tend to draft up the base pattern at the same time as constructing the final garment. There may still be tweaks to the pattern I need to make at this stage. This one is going to be all about bust support. I am currently using my bra drafting blocks, making paper boobs and creating multiple size variations - each size will have 7-8 bust sizes as an option. I hope to be able to cover the larger sizes as well - up to a G.  It's so much work!