Category: What I'm up to

1. Collaboration

   Posted on 12:00pm Monday 17th Jul 2017

   It's really nice to work with other corset makers. Scarlett Sapsford from Scarlett corset making recently contacted me with a sketch she had drawn of a corset design and I managed to interpret it 'digitally', that is, turn her 3D picture into a 2D flat pattern. I can look at the dimensions in space and approximate it in CAD. It helps that I now have a large library of designs (about 24 to date) that I can draw similarities from. There is some tweaking of course - Scarlett made up two iterations of toiles before she was happy, but it's a great way to design and illustrates the beauty of patterning in CAD - fast, efficient, and effective.

   If you would like to work with me or have existing paper or PDF designs that you would like amended or graded, please get in touch. A rough idea of fees is below;

   DRAFTING TIMESHEET - DIGITAL PATTERN MAKING BY CORSETS BY CAROLINE
   Cost at £27.50 per hour
   Item	Approx time	Cost
   	taken (mins)
   Developing a new pattern
   Develop a draft pattern in one size (e.g. UK 12) from initial designers' sketch and ideas*	240	110
   Tweak draft 1 subsequent to mock up (designer creates toile) - draft 2	60	27.5
   Tweak draft 2 subsequent to amended mock up	30	13.75
   	sub total:	151.25
   Scanning an existing pattern into AutoCAD for manipulation and grading
   Tracing from a jpg or pdf - (6 panels) into CAD software	20	9.17
   Scaling and amending trace to one standard measurement (e.g. UK 12)	60	27.50
   	sub total:	36.67
   Grading the pattern
   Grading the pattern -20 mins per size for a 6 panel corset (one side)
   - grading the pattern - 6 extra sizes	120	55.00
   - adding nomenclature/ text etc. to pattern	15	6.88
   	sub total:	61.88
   PDFing the pattern for commerical use
   Setting up the template/ associating colours / pattern placement and conversion to PDF	25	11.46
   	sub total:	11.46
   * this depends on complexity - quote assumes a simple overbust design

2. Inspiration for new designs

   Posted on 12:00pm Wednesday 5th Apr 2017

   How many different corset design possibilities are there? It seems never ending to me. Every month whilst finishing off a design for my Patreon patrons I'm starting to think of my next design. Usually I have a feeling as to whether I should be basing the design on a particular period in history, or whether it should be simple or more complex. Tt usually comes to me in that semi conscious state in the morning before waking up. This month a photo popped into my Pinterest feed and I knew isntantly that was the one. I haven't been able to find any information on it but it looks like quite an old patent - not Victorian - the thrusting forward of the bust makes me think it was an Edwardian sports corset. Here is the screen grab;

   

   I concentrated onthe waspie part first - interesting how there are vertical back panels that join the lacing panel. Drafting these types of panels was a first but I ws very happy with the way they turned out - there is even a little space for shoulder bladed which was a complete fluke.

   It's an adaptable design I think - if the bust section can be removable it will allow for different coloured top sections. I also like the idea of  a halter top with the waspie. It's always good to offer options with patterns as clients like to have that adaptability, so this month's pattern will definitley have some  bits and pieces to play round with.

3. Patreon patterns - now into their 13th month

   Posted on 7:52pm Tuesday 28th Feb 2017

   I've just finished the corset bodice for Feb and I'm now working on a caged corset design which is probably one of the simplest designs actually - channels of boning basically held in place in three places: at the waistband and the top and bottom. If you look at Victorian caged corsets they usually had a hip gore also so I may work this into the design as an option. I like the fact that the bones are free to move over and around the ribs and hips - there have to be sufficient bones there though to prevent that flesh being forced out of those windows! It could also be possible to add bobbinet or a stretchy fabric as a liner so no flesh is visible. A versatile and attractive corset that looks good particularly over dresses.