Caroline's corset blog

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  1. 20191210_144901

    I haven't much ventured into Edwardian corsetry before. This is my first S-bend pattern inspired by the Sanakor that I saw at the Symington study day in Nottingham in May (without the suspenders of course);

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    A corset of this era (early 1900's) was intended to create a straight line at the front and fall smoothly and evenly over the hips whilst gently forcing a forward stance - hip padding was not a feature; It was the layers of chemise and petticoats that created the hip 'bulk'. 
    An Edwardian corset will support and lift the bust upwards from below - the top-line is no higher than the bust apex and higher than the under-bust line. Centre front ribbon ties will pull the bust together slightly although I haven't added mine yet as you can see in the following pic. A 'uni-bust', aided with padding, was the fashionable silhouette. 

     

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    I purposefully didn't look at Nikki Swift's pattern (who has actually taken the pattern from the original)  in her excellent Foundations Revealed article on the Sanakor as I wanted to put my own spin on it and use the photos/ measurements I took on the day to create more of an 'inspired-by' design than an actual copy. The first of Nikki's 3-part article is free and gives some great background to this lovely design;
    https://foundationsrevealed.com/articles/corset-patterns/1900s-corset-patterns/521-the-sanakor-plunge-corset-1-part-1
    I'm thinking that this might be my December Patreon pattern due for posting in a couple of weeks. I'd love to hear from anyone who has experience with S-bend corsets - do you find them comfortable? I'm not so sure it's a comfortable shape for me to be honest, but maybe it's just because it's very different to what I am used to....most the of the waist suppression is towards the back and I can really feel the squeeze on my ribs! I'm definitely an hour-glass rather than conical kind of girl.

  2. I sometimes create non-corset designs - just to make a change! I wrote earler in the year about my crescent collection that I developed as part of my fashion diploma and now I have finally got around to creating a pattern for the skirt part of the project. A simple darted skirt is one of the easiest things to pattern cut - it was the first garment I learned to pattern. My design isn't quite as simple as this! It uses panelling to create the shaping including one slim panel that extends from the centre front to almost the centre back and allows for unusual fabric juxtapositions. In this one it is pink leather inserted into Harris tweed;

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    I'm just getting it tested out by 3 patrons of mine and if it works out OK for them I'll get it published through Etsy.

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  3. I create one pattern per month and often there isn't time to complete a sample properly so I often leave them unfinished with the idea that I 'might' finish them at a later date. It never happens of course...I will finish them just sufficiently to take an OK picture of them. This month though I am so super proud of my design that I wanted to make something beautilful, so I finished it (see pics below).

    I had thought that introducing a pattern with so many cup sizes would be popular, how wrong I was! Nobody is buying, and it's taken me months to design and perfect which I'm really sad about. It's a tough business this one!

    If you are interested in this one it can be purchased here; https://www.etsy.com/uk/CorsetsbyCaroline/listing/719451036/corset-pattern-abi-a-multi-cup-sized?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1567774765232

    or it is avilable for patrons on Patreon until the end of September 19 for just $5 (if you become a member).

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    BURLESQUE