Caroline's corset blog

Musings and progress from Caroline - projects she's working on, tips and tricks, and thoughts on corsetry

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  1. Cupped corseted waistcoat pattern

    Posted on

    The last design of 2022 was a cupped waistcoat design that garnered quite a bit of interest on social media. It's an unusual design and makers do like cups! 

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    This is an 8-panel (14 with cups) cupped corseted waistcoat-inspired pattern with straps; Sizes (UK) 8 -24 (US 4 - 20) - actual (corseted) waist sizes 21''-37''/ 53-94cm. 49 cup sizes currently however note that this design is not recommended for bust sizes over a DD. (Note that I have drafted the cups to a E for anyone up for the challenge - but please be warned of the difficulties presented by large cups!)

    This is an advanced-level design due to the cups.

    I'm laying out my patterns now in such a way that layers can be hidden within the PDF; download the free Adobe reader at wwww.adobe.com to ensure you have the correct functions to do this (and print out your particular size only if preferred).

    This pattern can be purchased through my website, Etsy and Payhip.

  2. 2D mannequin

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    Could you see a use for a half-sized 2D mannequin showing a few useful standard measurements?

    2D mannequin screenshot

    I use standard measurements diagrams in my CAD work to sense-check my drafting and recently expanded this into more of a representative body shape (croquis). Each size reflects standards for vertical measurements; waist to shoulder, waist to nape, waist to hip and knee, and horizontals; shoulder, chest, and back width. Waist, low waist, hip and bust can't be represented to scale in 2D but their vertical position on the body is shown.
     
    Obviously when working in 2D there are limitations, but I have found it useful when allocating grades to panels, and positioning the shoulder strap for example. In the design I am currently working on, the seam at the back falls roughly at the middle of one side of the back width, and by overlaying the panels for each size over the croquis I was able to make adjustments quickly and easily. This short video shows how I assessed the shoulder strap position but I also went on to move the seams on the larger size; https://youtu.be/ROf08mXX-pc
     
    It's obviously easy in CAD to overlay pattern panels on a full-sized croquis, but even printed out on paper at half-scale it could be useful for pattern development and grading. The resultant PDF of the e-mannequin I have created comes in standard sizes UK8-24 (each size layer can be hidden) and cm or inch grids that can also be turned on or off. What do you think? Send me your e mail address if you like the idea and would like to test it out.

  3. 1913-inspired long-line corset or skirt with elasticated option

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    gg

    front cover

    There are a few options to this design. The original 1913 patent on which it is based is typical of the era - a long-line smoothing corset with elasticated side panels for comfort (quite girdle-like). Suspenders of course as well which not only would have held up the stockings but would have pulled the corset downwards adding to the general smooth look.
     
    I made the skirt option in leather with a coutil strength layer which I love however now the cold weather is here, tights are needed, and I can never get on with a corseted skirt with tights combo (in going to the bathroom terms!).
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    This is not a difficult design - 6 panels per side, and sized to a UK 30 (44'' waist/ 55'' hip) and is published for my Patreon patrons in November 2022.